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Ironwork bull sculpture overlooking an Icelandic valleyBikepacker crossing a glacial river plain in Iceland's interior

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The Iceland Divide

My latest adventure was to ride the Iceland Divide unsupported with my friend Graham Markham, from the north of the island to the south.

I first met Graham over 25 years ago while serving in the British Army. I can remember the exact time, conversation and location when we first met. I'd just been posted into a new unit as the regiment's Army Physical Training Instructor. One of my junior PTIs said, "I'll introduce you to Captain Graham Markham, you'll like him." His prediction was spot on. Graham became one of my most trusted and loyal friends, and later my best man.

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Three bikepackers and hikers sharing a gravel road through Iceland's volcanic interiorLone bikepacker on a winding gravel road beneath heavy Icelandic clouds
Lone rider dwarfed by a vast gravel track crossing Iceland's highland desertSilhouetted bikepacker on a gravel road with jagged Icelandic peaks beyondPale Icelandic horse grazing with a blue mountain plateau behind
Bikepacker filtering water at sunrise beside a loaded gravel bike on Iceland's black volcanic plains
Loaded bikepacking rig leaning against a boulder beside a glacial lake
Bikepacker riding a ridge of black volcanic gravel under heavy cloud
Glacial river cutting through a basalt canyon in the Icelandic interior
Four trekkers with packs and poles walking towards camera on a highland track
Icelandic road sign reading Nema starfsmenn, Staff only, at the edge of the highlands
Rainbow falling across a moss covered volcanic cone in the Icelandic highlands
Sunlit rhyolite ridges of Landmannalaugar under a dark storm sky
Green mountain hut cafe door covered in handwritten Icelandic menus
Bathers in a steaming natural hot river beside a highland hut
Boardwalk winding through steam and low light towards highland huts
Frost covered bikepacking tent and loaded gravel bike at a highland campsite
Red and black highland toilet block with a boardwalk leading up to it
Weathered black timber shelter standing alone on a green highland plain
Loaded bikepacker crossing a vast mossy lava plain beneath a jagged volcanic peak
Cluster of pink sea thrift flowers growing from lava rock below an Icelandic peak
Gravel track curving through moss covered lava towards a distant snow streaked volcano
Glacial meltwater thundering over dark basalt rock in full flood
Traditional white Icelandic church with a red roof beside its small churchyard
Icelandic farmsteads and horses on a green ridge above a still river
Icelandic flag in the foreground with a lone cyclist on the empty highway beyond
Solo bikepacker riding a dead straight Icelandic road towards a huge mountain wall
Rain beaded bikepacking bags and frame pack on a loaded gravel bike in wet scrub
Frost rimed dwarf willow leaves at first light on the tundra
Icelandic church silhouetted in low morning mist above a wide valley
Timber cabin mirrored in a still lake below a wooded hillside
Bikepacker riding out of a river crossing on a stony braided riverbed
Glacial river threading a broad U shaped valley with a gravel track alongside
Lone rider crossing a vast grey boulder desert under a big cloud sky
Jagged volcanic peak rising above rolling moss covered highland hills under cumulus cloud
Portrait view of a black volcanic spire beyond pale mossy ridges and a black sand track
Close up of pale grey Icelandic moss with dark mountain slopes behind
Icelandic horseman in a traditional wool sweater leading loose horses and a dog down a gravel track
Olive bikepacking tent pitched on a stony riverbed beside a loaded gravel bike
Remote highland farmstead with red roofs and an Icelandic flag under low grey cloud